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Showing &
Showmanship

FTLOP

There are many different styles of exhibition cages, as well as various ways to set up and decorate them at the cat shows. After a couple
of shows you will have a better idea of what type of cage and set up suits you and your cat. You’ll also have ideas on how you would like
to decorate the cage. It took us a few shows to figure out how we wanted to do things and here is what we’ve found that works for us.
Selecting a Cage

Before you buy any cages, go to a cat show or two to see what possibilities exist. Look at cages, cage decorations, litter boxes, litter,
food/water dishes, sleeping mats, and types of boxes being used to store unused items. Talk to the exhibitors to see why they chose their
particular arrangement. Many recommend that you use the show cages provided by the clubs/show venue until you knew what kind of
cage set up you would like to have.

For example, we checked to see how easy/difficult different cages were to set up, decorate, keep clean, dismantle, and transport. This
really helped us decide what type of cage we wanted. We also got to see how sturdy the different cages were, how well they kept people
out and cats in, how easy it was to view the cat inside, as well as providing adequate space for the items our particular cat needed inside
the cage.

Our boy is on the large side, an intact male, and knows how to throw his weight around in order to escape from certain styles of show
cage. We wanted something that would show him off well, be durable, easy to set up, decorate, and take down. We also wanted the
largest one we could get and still be within show regulations, (no larger than: 22” X 44” X 22”, or 21” X 27” X 36”, depending on the
specific show’s requirements) and sturdy enough to contain him.

Being large he can easily tip over a litter box if it isn’t secured to the side of a cage. When he stretches out and rolls around on his matt
he ends up knocking over his food and water dish if they aren’t secured as well. We found out during his first two shows that he preferred
to have his food, water and litter box in his cage at all times. With the stress of showing for the first time and not having these necessities
about him his discomfort increased. Even now, after being shown for a while, he is more relaxed when his things are easily accessible.

After doing all of our homework and going to several shows we decided on a black powder coated wire show cage with an attached
bottom. We liked the idea of having a corner shelf in the cage for our boy to get up on, since cats like to be in high places. This helped to
relieve some anxiety early on when he was getting used to all of the commotion at the shows. We also needed something strong enough
to support his weight. There was no way he could force his way out through the top, or move the cage to the edge of the benching table;
squeezing through the newly formed gap or pushing the entire cage off the table, decorations and all.

We were able to anchor his food, water and litter box to the cage bars so we didn’t have to worry about him tipping anything over and
making a big mess. This kept him much cleaner. I can lock it up when I have to go elsewhere in the show hall and know that no one can
get in. We use the same set up for our kittens, as they can be messy, too.

With these types of cages you still have to get show curtains and skirts. They can be made out of any kind of material which can be
purchased at a fabric store, or made out of nice sheets, drapery material, etc. They must cover the top, the back and two sides. The only
thing not being covered should be the front.

A skirt is needed to go underneath the show cage to cover storage containers beneath your benching table. Even though our cage has a
built in floor, I still put a nice looking soft bath mat on the bottom for him to lie on. If he gets too warm he can push the bath matt aside and
lay on the cool floor pan.
Our wire cages fold completely flat and are about the same size as the show cages provided by the show hall. They look much nicer and
cleaner. Although they are heavier than the cloth cages, I have a small portable dolly that I use to transport my show tubs and cage.
Weight is therefore not an issue. They are also easy to scrub and disinfect. If I have to use a bleach mix to disinfect them, I don’t worry
about the wire becoming discolored.

I haven't tried the Sturdy Cages yet, although many exhibitors use them. I have noticed that they are lightweight, easy to set up and take
down, and you don't have to bring cage curtains, just a skirt. I do like the increased visibility of the wire enclosures. The mesh doors and
windows of the Sturdy Cages make it a bit difficult to show off your cat. Be sure to get a small pad lock and lock both door zippers
together so the cat can’t work the two apart and open up the door.

If you intend on flying to shows several times a year, a foldable Sturdy Cage or other type of canvas/cloth show cage would definitely be
much easier to work with, unless you intend on only using the cages provided by the club putting on the show. For clubs’ show cages,
bring some Nolvasan or other heavy-duty non-irritating disinfectant; something that will kill viruses, bacteria, and any other organism
transmissible to cats.

Even though these cages are cleaned it is a good idea to disinfect it your self. Don’t use a bleach solution, as it is irritating to the eyes,
nose, and lungs. Your cat won’t like being in the cage because of it and neither will your neighbor and their cat.

It can help to spray diluted lavender in the cage before the cat goes in. It not only helps to mask the smell of the disinfectant but also with
some cats it helps to calm them. Make sure the lavender is 100% natural oil that is diluted. You use only a couple drops of oil in a spray
bottle of water. You might find it premixed with some of the natural pet healers and suppliers. You need to make sure that your cat does
not have an allergy to lavender prior to the show. Check with your veterinarian or homeopath if you have questions.

When using these cages we also bring zip ties to latch the top down. Our boy can pop the lid off in a heart beat if we don’t.

Cage set up

After you’ve selected the right cage for you and your cat, emphasis on your cat, it’s time to figure out what kind of food/ water dishes and
litter box would be best. Our boy ends up stepping in his food and water dish if they are secured at ground level. So, we bought dishes
that could be clamped to the side of the cage at muzzle level. This way he doesn’t make a mess, and if he wants to stretch out, he can still
fit under them. You could also use a large Lix it bottle, the type you’d use with a rabbit. We have these at home for our kittens since they
make a mess with any other set up.

For his litter box, we bought a small plastic storage tub. Small enough to not be in the way, large enough to accommodate our boy, and
sides tall enough so that when he digs to China it doesn’t get all over the cage. If your cat is like our boy and needs to have the litter box
in the cage at all times, you can put the lid on it to keep your cat from sleeping in the litter. This also gives them more room to stretch out.
To keep our boy from knocking over the litter box, we put two small holes in the side of the litter box that would be touching the cage. We
then slip a zip tie through the holes and secure it to the side of the cage. Now he cannot change his cage into a stinky beach.

The litter that we use is the pine-pellet variety. It smells good, masks the urine and stool odor really well; and it doesn’t get his coat all
dusty, dull and dirty. Since we don’t take his litter box out and he doesn’t like it covered with a lid, he ends up sleeping in it from time to
time. Using this litter helps ensure that he stays clean and pine fresh. Remember, while the show is there to judge conformation, it’s also
like a beauty pageant. If a judge is having a hard time trying to decide between two outstanding cats, grooming can determine who places
and who doesn’t.

We also provide our boy with a hang on fan to keep him cool, nice plush matt to rest on, as well as a corner perch. Providing a soft matt
and/or hanging perch may also cut down on the time the litter box is used as a sleeping spot. Most of the shows he goes to, he spends
sleeping unless it’s time to go to the ring, or he smells/hears a girl near by. He particularly likes exotic women like the Bengal queens.

Decorating your Cage

Once everything has been set up inside of the cage we decorate the outside. I bought drapery material at a fabric shop and instead of
sewing it to fit a particular cage size, I just drape it in a way that it covers all sides but the front. This way if I don’t bring my own cage, I
know my curtains will still fit the cages provided and look good. I use safety pins to help tuck and form the material to the cage easily.
Some exhibitors use different forms of clamps to do this but I like the safety pins because they are easy to hide in the material
unobserved.

Many people put pictures or other types of decoration on top of their cage. Before we put the cage curtains up, I put down a piece of
cardboard or Plexiglas on top of the cage, then drape the material over it. This keeps the pictures and decorations from wobbling and the
cat from bothering it from underneath. Before we used this, it was common for us to see our decorations bouncing around and our
pictures falling over when our boy got bored.

Before we bought our cage, it was tempting to put the Plexiglas on top of the cage curtains and use sealing wax to keep things from
moving about when our boy would try to push his way out. Now we can relax. He knows he can’t get out and doesn’t try anymore. It’s
enough work to keep an eye on all of the rings for your cats’ number and finals, let alone having to keep everything upright after the
frequent kitty quakes.

With any of the show cages we’ve used, I always found that it helped to put a large square piece of a non-skid material under the cage
drape to keep the drape from moving around. Otherwise it is sitting on slick plastic and I was always readjusting and scooting it back to
keep it nice looking.
If you need ideas for cages, you can look at the many pictures of different cage styles and set ups I took at shows. View them by clicking
on the gallery link at the top of the page.

Cage Selection & Set Up

By, Shauna Toller, Bay Lynx Pixie-Bobs